CHAPTER 28 mid SEPT 2010 to early
1300 miles from CHICAGO IL, to MOBILE AL
WATERWAYS (last half of SEP)
We passed through eight
locks on the IL Waterway. The waterway is very busy with commercial
tugs & barges (tows) as well as southbound pleasure craft (PC). On the
IL Waterways tugs can push as many as 15 barges up to 1200 feet long! We
saw lots of eagles, American coots (when they take off from the water,
they patter their feet for a considerable distance), herons, egrets, and
big flocks of migrating white pelicans (see pics).
Most riverside homes are built on stilts due to frequent flooding
of the river. Dredges (see pic) are
constantly at work to keep the channel open. Weather was mostly sunny and
in the 70’s.
After leaving CHICAGO via the "Chicago Harbor Lock", and
passing under many low bridges, we arrived at the free town dock in
JOLIET, IL. That evening we were delighted when Dale and Brenda,
Harbor Hosts for the area, stopped by. They brought us to the PO the next
day, and we enjoyed their company during happy hour and dinner with Phil
and Barbara on "Lagniappe".
Next stop was SENECA, IL at "Spring Brook Marina", where
we again enjoyed the company of Dale & Brenda.
The following day at "Henry Marina" in HENRY, IL we
landed at the old lock wall, and they tied us up to trees and rocks
(see pic). It floods a lot here, so
they improvise and do whatever works! Had dinner at the marina’s
restaurant which appears to be the local biker bar decorated with bras
hanging from the rafters!
Next, we visited PEORIA HEIGHTS, IL stopping at "IL Valley
Yacht Club" (aka IVY), a first class facility.
In HAVANA, IL "Tall Timbers Marina" was next (see
pic). In this area, we saw lots of Asian carp (local nuisance
fish) jumping. Many boaters had carp jump into their cockpits (engine
noise startles them), making a slimy, bloody mess! Local fishermen have
found a way to profit from these nuisance fish – they herd and net the
fish for 25¢ apiece. The carp are then processed into fish oil and feed,
similar to Menhaden fish in the Chesapeake Bay.
The following night we stopped at "Buckhorn Island" anchorage,
and the next day arrived in GRAFTON, IL at the "Grafton Harbor
Marina". Had dinner with Mark and Sylvia on "Heavenly
Ours"; haven’t seen them since Charlevoix in Lake
Michigan. Bought some diesel here for $3.09 a gallon.
RIVER (3 days, early OCT)
Three locks on the Mississippi River. Missouri
is to starboard, and Illinois is on the port side of the river.
Lots of big tree stumps and debris floating down the river, and 4 knots of
current boosted our speed to 11 knots! Tall cliffs along the river in
Missouri are mined (see pic). Passed
by ST LOUIS MO; it’s a shame they don’t have any docks for
boats to stop and visit. Stopped in KIMMSWICK, MO at "Hoppies
Marina" (see pic). Walked into
town, browsed in lots of cute shops, and had lunch at the locally famous
"Blue Owl". Back to the marina in time for Fern’s daily info
seminar on what to expect in the upcoming waterways. Fern & Hoppie
have been running the marina for 37 years!
Next, we anchored at "Little Diversion Channel" in MO,
had to use two anchors due to the narrow channel.
The following day we anchored at "Boston Bar Island" in IL.
OHIO RIVER (1
day, early OCT)
Two locks on the Ohio River. Illinois
is on port side, and Kentucky is on starboard side of the
river. Had to wait 3 hours at "Lock 52" (tows have priority over
pleasure craft), then arrived just before dark in PADUCAH, KY at
the free town dock.
RIVER (early to mid OCT)
We only had to do one lock, the
"Barkley Lock" on this river. Then one more mile to GRAND
RIVERS, KY where we spent a week at "Green Turtle Bay
Marina". The marina has a good deal; stay 7 days, but only pay for 5
at $1.25 a foot. We enjoyed "Patti’s Restaurant" (see
pic), locally famous for two inch thick pork chops, and browsed
the shops in the charming town. One afternoon we rented a golf cart and
had a blast exploring the surrounding area. Another day we took the
courtesy car to nearby PADUCAH for major provisioning. Saturday was
the yearly "Hunters Moon Festival". It was great fun with lots
of crafts, live music, a parade (see pic) and
delicious food. A giant fried turkey leg was the local favorite! We were
highly entertained at the "Story Telling Festival" that night in
the local theater. The tree leaves are really starting to color, adding to
the beauty of the gently rolling hills. We’re in America’s
"heartland" and just loving it!
RIVER (mid OCT)
Soft fall colors on the river are just
beautiful (see pic). We stayed in
"Cypress Creek" anchorage our first night.
Next day we arrived at "Pebble Isle Marina" in NEW
JOHNSONVILLE, TN. Had fun at happy hour on the dock (see
pic), and met up with old friends Chuck and Barbara on
"Gold Watch" for dinner.
"Swallow Bluff Island" was our next anchorage. We saw white
pelicans group fishing by herding the fish, and lots of bald eagles and
American Coots (see pic).
The next lock was "Pickwick Lock"; we were lifted 55 feet tied
to a floating bollard. That afternoon we stopped for a couple of days at
"Grand Harbor Marina" in COUNCE TN. Met up with lots of
loopers here for happy hour and dinner.
WATERWAY (TTW) (mid to late OCT)
TTW was built between 1972 & 1984 in
Mississippi and Alabama, at a cost of $2B. More earth was moved than in
the construction of the Panama Canal. The TTW is divided into three
sections, and is over 234 miles with 10 locks all 600 feet long and 110
feet wide. On the TTW the average 8 barge tow can move as much freight as
120 rail cars or 480 tractor trailer trucks! The leading commodities being
transported are wood products, coal, rock, chemicals, steel, fuel, cement
& logs (see pics). We saw lots of
eagles, turtles, coots, vultures, deer, and ferrets running along the
river banks. The trees look lovely in fall colors.
In the first section of the TTW, the "DIVIDE CUT", we
passed through "Whitten Lock" (see pics)
using a mid ship tie to a floating bollard for an 85 foot drop.
Anchored just before "Montgomery Lock" for the night.
The next day on the second section of the TTW, the "CANAL
SECTION", we passed through "Montgomery Lock" and
"Rankin Lock", and stopped at "Midway Marina" in FULTON,
MS. Bought some diesel here for $2.79 a gallon. Lots of loopers here.
We had fun visiting Elvis’s birthplace (see
pics) in nearby TUPELO by car. The northeast hills of Mississippi
are just beautiful!
The following day we passed through "Fulton Lock, Wilkins Lock,
Armory Lock, and Aberdeen Lock", and then anchored for the night. Now
we’re in the third section of the TTW, the "RIVER
SECTION". Starting to hear lots of trainer jets (T6A Texans) from
nearby "Columbus Air Force Base".
Next, we spent 8 days in COLUMBUS, MS - a favorite stop of ours.
Lots of loopers here to share happy hour and dinners. We had fun exploring
in the dinghy. Some days we biked, and some days we took the courtesy car
to get to excellent shopping and fun restaurants. We especially liked
"Proffitt’s Porch" for real southern cooking! Bought some
diesel here for $2.67 a gallon. There are alligators here, but it’s been
too cold for them to be out. It’s only in the 70’s & low 80’s.
Next, we passed through "Stennis Lock", then entered ALABAMA
and stopped at "Pirates Marina Cove" in PICKENSVILLE. We
walked over to the visitor center at the Belvill Lock. The visitor center
is a reproduction of a circa 1830 Greek Revival home, typical to the area
at the time. Also saw the circa 1926 "US Snagboat Montgomery",
which was retired in1982. Currently, this sternwheeler steamboat is a
National Historic landmark. That night we squeezed 7 of us loopers in the
courtesy van and went out to dinner.
The following day we passed through "Bevill Lock" before
arriving at "Sumter Recreation Area", a lovely anchorage with an
RV park, boat launch, and camping.
When flooding occurs on the waterways, it takes big bites from the
riverbanks. Many people can’t afford the high costs to fight erosion,
and some homes eventually tumble into the water (see
Next day passed through the "Heflin Lock", then passed by the
dramatic white cliffs (see pic) in EPES,
AL before arriving in DEMOPOLIS, AL for a few days. Loads of
loopers here! Boats had to raft 2 and 3 deep on the fuel dock while
waiting for a slip to open up. Finally, Demopolis Marina imposed a
"one day only stay" because so many boats are trying to stop
here. Lots of tugs also stop here to get fuel, change crews, and load
truckloads of food aboard. DEMOPOLIS is the last place to provision
before starting the 230 miles of the remote Black Warrior River.
WARRIOR RIVER (BWR) - Demopolis to Mobile (early Nov)
BWR in ALABAMA is 230 miles of
twists, bends and hairpin turns. Lots of tugs and tows in the BWR,
so it’s very important to make "security" calls on the VHF to
announce your location so the tows know where you are. If a pleasure craft
(PC) wants to pass a tow (see pic),
the PC hails the tow on the VHF and asks how to proceed. The tow captain
is fully aware of other traffic in the area, wind and current, where the
tight spots are, etc. You do what the tow captain tells you to do. Some
tows are very long, and when making a tight turn their bow is on one
shore, and their stern on the other shore. PC’s do not want to get
trapped there! The area surrounding the BWR is very remote, just a
few fishing camps and houses, but the natural beauty is unbelievable. Saw
palmetto and Spanish moss started to appear. Alabama’s only
population of black bears live here, along with lots of alligators (but it’s
too cold for them to be out), herons, egrets, and eagles. In the last 10
miles just before MOBILE, we also started to see seagulls and brown
pelicans – a sure sign of salt water ahead!
As we start down the BWR, we came upon the first of two locks,
"Demopolis Lock". We anchored that night in "Bashi
Creek" with two other boats.
Next day was the last lock, "Coffeeville Lock"; a 34 foot drop
that brought us to four feet above sea level. We anchored that night at
"Three Rivers Lake".
Our third and final day on the BWR, we anchored at "Tensaw
River Cutoff" with three other boats. We all met on "Sea
Sea" for happy hour. Back on our boat just before dark, we heard a
bullet rick shay off our boat very near to where we were sitting! There
were hunters all around us in the woods, but imagine being so careless as
to shoot a boat! Turned the clocks back one hour that night, now it’s
getting dark by 5pm which shortens our cruising day. We’re still in
Central Time Zone until Port St Joe on Florida’s
panhandle, where we enter Eastern Standard Zone, and gain the hour of
ALABAMA (early Nov)
The following day, we completed the last
few miles of the BWR, passed through the busy port of MOBILE,
headed out in MOBILE BAY, and arrived at "Dog River
Marina" for a few days. We topped off our diesel at $2.98 a gallon,
which entitled us to a free night’s dockage. The second day, after
paying $1/foot ($36), the marina gave us a $50 certificate to be used at
the local West Marine – not a bad deal! We took the courtesy car to
Walmart and to the "Boiling Pot" for the best overstuffed
shrimp po-boy – a gigantic grinder loaded with shrimp (see
pic). During our stay here, Ray ordered some parts for the
boat, changed the oil, and did some other boat maintenance chores.
So far, we’ve travelled 17,358
miles aboard SUMMERTIME.
We look forward to hearing from
friends and family – please keep the calls and emails coming!